That drip you have been ignoring? It is costing you more than you think. A faucet that drips just once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons of water annually. A faster drip can waste 20,000 gallons or more. That shows up on your water bill every single month — money going directly down the drain.
The frustrating part is that most faucet leaks are caused by inexpensive parts that wear out over time. A $5 washer. A $12 cartridge. An O-ring that costs less than a dollar. Understanding why your faucet is leaking is the first step to fixing it permanently.
The Four Main Types of Faucet Leaks
Not all faucet leaks are the same. Where your faucet is leaking tells you exactly what needs to be fixed.
- Dripping spout: Water drips from the faucet opening even when the handle is fully off
- Handle area leak: Water seeps around or under the handle, typically visible when the faucet is in use
- Base leak: Water pools around the base of the faucet on the sink deck
- Under-sink leak: Water drips from supply line connections or the faucet body underneath the sink
Our 10 common faucet problems guide covers all of these in overview. This guide gives you the full diagnosis and repair for each one.
Leak Type 1: Dripping Spout
The answer depends on your faucet type. There are four main faucet valve types, and each has a different failure mode.
Ball Faucets (common in single-handle kitchen faucets): A rotating ball with holes controls water flow. Over time, the rubber seats and springs inside the ball mechanism wear out and can no longer seal against the ball. Water finds its way through even when the ball is in the closed position.
Cartridge Faucets (most common in modern faucets): A cartridge — a self-contained unit with internal seals — controls water flow. When the cartridge wears out or its internal O-rings fail, water bypasses the seal and drips through.
Compression Faucets (older two-handle faucets): These use a rubber washer that presses against a valve seat to stop water flow. With each use, the washer compresses slightly. Over years of use, it wears flat, cracks, or hardens — and no longer creates a proper seal.
Ceramic Disc Faucets: Two ceramic discs with holes rotate against each other to control flow. They are extremely durable but can crack if debris gets between them, or if the faucet is overtightened repeatedly. See our durability buying guide for why ceramic disc faucets are worth the investment.
How to fix a dripping spout (cartridge faucets — most common):
- Turn off water supply valves under the sink
- Remove the handle (usually a screw under a decorative cap)
- Pull out the cartridge — it may lift straight out or require a cartridge puller tool
- Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it exactly
- Install the new cartridge, making sure it is oriented correctly (there is usually a tab that aligns with a notch)
- Reassemble and test
For compression faucets: Remove the handle and packing nut. Unscrew the stem and look at the rubber washer at the bottom. Replace the washer with an identical one. While you are there, replace the O-ring on the stem too. Reassemble and test.
Leak Type 2: Leaking at the Handle
Water seeping around the handle is almost always caused by worn O-rings on the faucet stem or cartridge body. O-rings are rubber rings that create a watertight seal between moving parts. Every time you operate the faucet, these rings experience friction. Over time they wear thin, crack, or lose their elasticity — and water starts to escape around them.
How to fix it:
- Turn off the water supply
- Remove the handle
- Look for O-rings on the faucet stem or cartridge — there are usually one to three of them
- Use a small pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully remove the old O-rings without scratching the metal
- Take them to the hardware store to match the exact size
- Coat the new O-rings lightly with plumber’s grease before installing
- Reassemble and test
This fix costs under $5 in parts and takes about 20 minutes. Make sure you have the right tools — see our faucet repair tools guide.
Leak Type 3: Leaking at the Faucet Base
If water is pooling around the base of the faucet on the sink deck surface, the problem is almost certainly the O-rings on the faucet body itself, or a failed sealant between the faucet base and the sink.
How to fix it: This repair requires removing the faucet from the sink, which is more work but still manageable. Turn off the water supply and disconnect the supply lines. Remove the mounting hardware from underneath the sink (basin wrench required — see our tools guide). Lift the faucet out of the sink holes. Inspect the O-rings around the faucet body and replace any that are damaged. Clean off any old plumber’s putty from the sink surface and the faucet base. Apply fresh plumber’s putty (or silicone per the manufacturer’s instructions) around the faucet base. Reinstall the faucet and reconnect everything. Our bathroom faucet replacement guide covers the full removal and reinstall process.
Leak Type 4: Leaking Under the Sink
Leaks under the sink are often discovered too late — after water damage to the cabinet floor has already occurred.
Loose supply line connections: The most common cause. Supply lines loosen over time due to water pressure vibration. Solution: tighten the connection slightly with a wrench.
Corroded supply line fittings: Old brass or steel fittings corrode and fail. Replace the supply lines entirely — they are inexpensive and easy to replace.
Cracked supply line: Older plastic braided lines can crack. Replace immediately — these failures can escalate to serious flooding.
Leak from the faucet body: If water is coming from the faucet body itself (not the connections), the faucet body may be cracked. This usually means faucet replacement — check our durability buying guide to choose a long-lasting replacement.
Why Fixing a Faucet Leak Temporarily Does Not Work
Some homeowners try to fix a leak by simply tightening the handle or cranking the faucet shut harder. This makes things worse over time. Over-tightening a leaking compression faucet damages the valve seat — the metal surface the washer presses against. Once the valve seat is grooved or pitted, even a perfect new washer will not seal properly. At that point, you either need to resurface the valve seat (with a seat dresser tool) or replace the faucet entirely.
The only permanent fix is replacing the worn component — washer, O-ring, or cartridge.
How to Prevent Faucet Leaks in the Future
You cannot make faucet parts last forever, but you can significantly extend their life. Do not over-tighten handles — turn faucets off firmly but gently. Use a water softener if you have hard water — mineral deposits accelerate wear on cartridges and O-rings. Replace O-rings proactively when doing any faucet repair. Check supply lines annually for corrosion or cracking. Install a pressure regulator if your home’s water pressure exceeds 80 PSI — high pressure dramatically accelerates faucet wear. For a complete maintenance routine, see our faucet maintenance guide.
When It Is Time to Replace Instead of Repair
Sometimes a faucet has simply reached the end of its useful life. Consider replacing rather than repairing if: the faucet is more than 15 to 20 years old, you have repaired it multiple times and it keeps leaking, replacement parts are no longer available, the faucet body itself is cracked or corroded, or repair costs approach or exceed the cost of a new faucet. A quality replacement faucet costs $80 to $250 and will last another 15 to 20 years. See our kitchen faucet buying guide or bathroom faucet guide for top-rated options.
The only permanent fix is replacing the worn component. Tightening a leaking faucet harder only damages the valve seat — making things worse in the long run.— FaucetMag Editorial Team
Frequently Asked Questions
How urgent is a dripping faucet? More urgent than most people think. A dripping faucet wastes thousands of gallons of water per year and increases water bills. More importantly, the underlying wear usually gets worse over time, leading to bigger problems if left alone.
Can I fix a leaking faucet without any plumbing experience? Yes. Cartridge replacement and washer replacement are beginner-friendly repairs that require only basic tools. If you can use a screwdriver and wrench, you can fix most faucet leaks.
Why does my faucet leak only when using hot water? This usually means the hot-side cartridge or washer is worn while the cold-side is still fine. In a two-handle faucet, each side has its own internal components — you only need to repair the leaking side.
What is a valve seat and how does it cause leaks? The valve seat is the metal surface inside the faucet body that the washer or cartridge presses against to stop water flow. Over time, mineral deposits can pit and corrode the valve seat, creating an uneven surface that a washer cannot seal against properly. A seat dresser tool can resurface it, or the faucet can be replaced.
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